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Two jumping spiders

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  • Two jumping spiders




  • #2
    NICE! Nice and close - Nice and sharp - Nice and colourful!
    IShootACanon

    Web: isacimages.com.au
    "Don't touch". Must be the scariest thing to read in braille!

    My Gear
    Proudly supporting Kaarakin Black Cockatoo Conservation Centre

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    • #3
      Good grief - however do you get such terrific results! So bright and crisp and detailed. Well done.

      Are they stacked or single images? Whenever I try that sort of shot I get a bit of relatively sharp body and bunch of blurry hairy legs, or vice-versa.

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      • #4
        Shots are single hand held ...
        @ 1:1 macro focus is critical and it becomes very important to have your gear set up .
        I have been toying with the idea of possibly doing a Short Macro course to teach people how to set up their camera / lens / flash ...

        For the strangest reason , I find Macro easy . Point / shoot / post the pictures ... I mean I am not the best by far ( not ) , but also I am not the worst by far ...
        And for point and shoot , I think I am doing ok ..

        To do better I might have to go the Studio route or the big $$ route . ( Image stacking - macro rail - capturing and freezing subjects )
        I sort of prefer my point and shoot method .. ( But the next level beckons )

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MEK View Post

          To do better I might have to go the Studio route or the big $$ route . ( Image stacking - macro rail - capturing and freezing subjects )
          I sort of prefer my point and shoot method .. ( But the next level beckons )
          You're clearly getting excellent results with the method you currently use, but I completely understand your preference for 'point and shoot'. For my money, it retains the spontaneity inherent in wandering around and shooting what you see without too much fuss. I always shoot birds hand held with no tripod and it seems to be a trade-off between enjoying the freedom or getting a bit more sharpness. But on the other hand there is always a certain appeal in trying new techniques (and of course having an excuse for buying more gear!).

          A short course sounds great. Would you post it somewhere like here or maybe pass on a few tips?

          For instance, I took this a few days ago and got another of those "Close, but no cigar" outcomes that seem to be the usual result when I try macro. Please excuse my posting a picture on your thread, but any tips on how to improve would be most welcome. One problem i had was that puffs of breeze kept moving the web and I had to focus manually to keep it in the right plain. But even when I got the hang of that, it seemed like I still couldn't get much depth of field, despite the tiny spider being the size of my little fingernail or smaller. (Canon EF 100mm 1:2.8 USM lens. Allegedly Macro, but maybe that's not the best tool for that particular job?

          Cheers,

          Chris

          Name:  ChristmasSpider.jpg
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          • #6
            Light = The secret to Macro !
            Yes , light is the secret .

            What I do is a AIM for the smallest aperture , highest shutter speed and lowest ISO I can get .
            Also I don't crop for Macro / or do so very seldom .

            The lens you have is a good lens .
            If you dont shoot with flash , then you need to back off from 1:1 to maybe 1:2 or 1:3
            This will get you further away from the subject and increase Depth of Field ( or Focus if you will )
            Its no good doing / photographing in a way that does not give you the results you want ..
            I call this doing it the wrong way . A lot of people do it the wrong way over and over till their macro lens ends up on Ebay .

            So if you are not getting the results you want , you need to eliminate the method that does not work and move on . ( Try something different )
            My macro learning curve was all about eliminating what did not work , so I was left with what does work ..

            I have written a few guides , posted on this forum some where .
            If I were you , I would get a test subject . And start practicing and changing the way you Macro till you find a method the yields the results you want .
            A lot of people don't have a test subject , then don't sit down in a controlled environment and experiment .
            I have done thousands of shutter actuation 's in this manner . Photographed coins to model airplane engines .

            Practice / and testing . Find the camera settings that work for you .

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            • #7
              Originally posted by MEK View Post
              Light = The secret to Macro !
              Yes , light is the secret .
              ...........
              Thanks very much for the great tips. For some reason I never use flash for anything. I bought one and then didn't get around to using it. A blind spot in my knowledge that I seriously must address. New Year's resolution - learn flash!

              You're exactly right about people repeating the same mistakes. I still do it..... The idea of taking a set subject and doing as many tests as it takes to get some good combinations sounds the ideal antidote. I do understand the need to upgrade my general understanding of depth of field to something a lot more exact for specific circumstances. I just need to actually do it!

              I tend to shoot live subjects that have a habit of moving around (and are mostly a fair way away too), and I regular fall into the trap of just hoping the sharpness ducks will line up for me next time... But a few solid hours of work with a small static subject on the bench sounds good. Perhaps I'll start with a small "Matchbox" toy and graduate to a dead fly or similar.

              Cheers,

              Chris

              Oh, and I just noticed your Macro Guides stickied right at the top of this section! How observant of me... not.
              Last edited by ChrisC333; 17-12-2017, 05:32 PM.

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              • #8
                All my macro Camera lens combinations are pre set to a certain degree .. ( Just need a little fine tuning in the field ) .
                This way all I do is point the Camera / Focus / shoot and thats it ...
                Any fine corrections ( Light ) can be done Post Production ( Software ) ...
                I use ISO , and shutter speed for corrections before messing with aperture .

                At the very top of the macro section STICKY , my guides are posted .

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