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  • #31
    Thanks Michael, no worries!
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    • #32
      Here's a quick-fire tip on exposure..

      When shooting a sporting event with even lighting (so either an overcast cloudy day, or at night) set your camera to aperture priority, dial it down to f/2.8 (or as low of an f stop number your lens will go) and fire away.. You will often notice that the exposure just doesn't look right. Most cameras, regardless of your metering mode, will under expose the main subject and will meter more for the background.

      A quick fix for this is to zoom in on the field of the sport your shooting, so the grass in rugby league or soccer for example. Fill the frame with it and see what reading it gives you (shutter speed wise). Remember it and then switch to manual and use those settings. Metering off the grass will help a hell of a lot in getting a proper player exposure.
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      • #33
        Originally posted by MRA View Post
        A quick fix for this is to zoom in on the field of the sport your shooting, so the grass in rugby league or soccer for example. Fill the frame with it and see what reading it gives you (shutter speed wise). Remember it and then switch to manual and use those settings. Metering off the grass will help a hell of a lot in getting a proper player exposure.
        In Soccer there seems to be a lot of white in uniforms and most uniforms seem to have a large nylon content which means that they reflect badly and ruin exposure so I tend to spot meter off the players as they are the most reflective thing in the frame. I also NEVER shoot into into the sun on a pitch that has artificial grass.
        .

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        • #34
          Even if a club is wearing all white, I would still meter off the grass and go from there. If the highlights are too blown out then adjust a tad, but I still find metering off the grass works best.

          Personally, I've never shot a sporting event on artificial grass. Why is it hard to shoot backlit under those circumstances for?
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          • #35
            Originally posted by MRA View Post
            Personally, I've never shot a sporting event on artificial grass. Why is it hard to shoot backlit under those circumstances for?
            Any hint of moisture and they are like photographing a disco mirror ball.
            .

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            • #36
              I shot the olympic beach volleyball trials in Brisbane in 1995 on a dreary, dark, rainy day, semi indoors at the Southbank Piazza. I used Fujichrome 400 pushed 1.5 stops which meant I had to get the film processed at iso1200. For my exposure reading I metered off the grey concrete walls and set that in manual mode. They slides turned out a tad dark but according to Australian Volleyball Magazine I had the best shots of the tournament and he published six of them including the opening spread.
              That was actually the cruisiest event I've ever done. I heard it was on so I rang up and asked for a photo pass. They said yes, just show up on the day and see some guy and I was in like flynn. It wouldn't happen like that anymore I bet.

              For rugby super 7 at Suncorp Stadium under lights, with iso1600 I metered off the grass and set that in manual mode and shot jpegs.
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              At Gold Coast Indycarnival 1995 with Fujichrome 100, I used the sunny 16 exposure in manual mode + 1 stop to allow for the extender.
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              For ARC I used mostly Aperture priority because of the patchy light in the forest, except for when I could predict the cars being in bright sunlight where I used sunny 16 exposure again.
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              For sports not played on a field of course you need to be able to adapt to the conditions.
              Last edited by Bloke; 05-03-2013, 11:25 PM.

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              • #37
                Just noticed this thread. Lots of good info here. And just to share how I do it...

                I mostly shoot JPEGs - full size on CF card and small on Eye-Fi SD card to upload to club's website or FB page quickly - but sometimes will shoot RAW. Mainly in a situation where it is under floodlights and best quality is required for a front cover or feature or something. Doesn't really add too much time to workflow as I use a Firewire CF card reader and Photo Mechanic to select the subset of images (that I then take in to Lr to finish off).

                I also set my own white balance using Kelvin and WB adjustment (to adjust for those stadiums with lots of green in their lights).

                From a recent match:

                NSW Waratahs - Israel Folau


                NSW Waratahs - Adam Ashley-Cooper


                NSW Waratahs - Michael Hooper
                Last edited by photae; 06-03-2013, 08:39 AM.

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                • #38
                  looks like I will have to say a few things in here later on today when i have some free time.

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                  • #39
                    MRA's pro tips for sports photography.
                    1. Borrow all of Wackos gear
                    2. Flaunt it in front of the real photographers (ones that have to stay for the whole event)
                    3. Tell Scottymc that nikon is better than canon - To which he replies Voodoo is better than western medicine
                    4. Get out photo'd by scottymc and wacko every chance He can (hehehehe)
                    5. Sit back in awe of Scottymc and wacko's awesomeness shining through.
                    Its not paranoia if everyone is actually watching you
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                    Scotty's Place

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